Four months into my South American adventure, I found myself once again in Colombia - a country I hadn’t planned to spend much time in but have become obsessed with. So, it felt only right to see in the New Year here, doing what I love most.

The plan? A seven-day bikepacking trip venturing through the remote coffee region with Colombian ultracyclist Omar Rubiano. Omar is a seasoned bikepacker, photographer, and the brains behind this trip. He wanted to use it as an opportunity to showcase the raw beauty of cycling in this region.

The Route

Starting in Medellín, we wound our way through coffee plantations and across the Andes mountains to finish in Manizales, the largest coffee production hub in Colombia. On paper it doesn’t sound too extreme - less than 700km with around 12,000m elevation. In truth, this wasn’t the original plan. Omar had initially designed a bigger route with over 20,000m climbing. However, when our “warm-up” out of Medellin turned into a 120km ride with a 30km gravel climb in darkness, I arrived at our first stop feeling broken and extremely humbled. Thanks to Omar’s local knowledge we tweaked the route to allow for a fraction less suffering.

Highlights of the trip

The third day was one of my favourites. We spent the day literally riding in the clouds as we climbed out of Salamina towards a town called Manzanares. Knowing we had a huge day of elevation ahead of us, I remember feeling smug as we finished the first climb ahead of schedule. But, of course, that’s when a distraction inevitably pops up. This time, in the form of a life-sized nativity scene blaring local folk music, with a peacock wandering around it. It was bizarre and a great excuse to get off the bikes for a BAR+ break, which I think the peacock appreciated too.

The main highlight came on the final day of the trip - riding through Parque de Los Nevados. High up in the clouds, you suddenly find yourself surrounded by thousands of ancient plants called Frailejones. They are Omar’s favourite plant, and his respect for them is contagious. These plants can only survive in high-altitude ecosystems called paramos, yet play a vital role in this country. They filter and provide 85% of Colombia’s fresh water. Sadly, they are now endangered, serving as a reminder of our strained relationship with nature.

Lessons learnt

From day one, I was reminded that the landscape here commands respect. The weather can shift dramatically, the gravel is unpredictable, and plans are often more like suggestions. What seems like an easy 80km ride can quickly turn into a 7-hour slog, hiking your bike up a mountain in the dark. While I found it frustrating to shorten the route at first, it taught me to accept that it’s fine to adapt your plans. It lead to a better experience, shifting my focus to the journey rather than the numbers at the end.

Fuelling the adventure

In the more remote sections of this route, towns can be separated by 20km climbs and food options can be scarce. We took 14 MIX90 carb drinks, 12 BAR+, a tube of SLT07 electrolytes, and 10 Styrkrthon bars as post-ride treats. Having reliable nutrition was a lifesaver and I really looked forward to our mid-climb pauses to refuel and rehydrate. Styrkr always reminds me of home and, at risk of sounding soppy, it felt like having a piece of home with me the whole time.

What makes Colombia so special?

In just seven days of cycling, it felt like we explored seven different worlds. Each town has its own climate and character. You can start the day in a humid valley filled with coffee plants and finish high up in the thin air of a mountain village. One of my favourite things about Colombia is how cyclists are welcomed everywhere. Warmth and hospitality are ingrained in the culture, as is cycling. I can't wait to see more people come here and experience it for themselves.